El Refugio La Casa de Don Tomas
A pretty property and a good base for exploring the Atacama. Good to know: my room didn’t have air conditioning — check amenities if AC matters to you.
© VeggieTravelGirlSouth America · Chile
San Pedro de Atacama felt genuinely magical. I spent five days using this tiny desert town as my base for exploring the Atacama Desert — Mars-like rock formations, colorful lagoons, flamingos, salt flats, steaming geysers high in the Andes and seemingly endless stars once the sun goes down.
Come here for the desert, not for a traditional city break. San Pedro itself is a small desert town, but it’s the gateway to some of the most incredible landscapes in northern Chile. The variety surprised me most — the colors, mountains, salt flats, wildlife, lagoons and volcanic landscapes make different parts of the region feel like completely different worlds.
Getting there: I flew to Santiago, then on to Calama, the closest major airport. From Calama Airport I took a shared van transfer to San Pedro for about $15 USD. I didn’t need to pre-book — several companies at the airport offer transportation to San Pedro.
How I explored: I used organized excursions, which made it easy to reach remote lagoons, salt flats and geothermal areas without renting a car. Some excursion days are long, so plan for early mornings, changing temperatures and plenty of time on the road.
Day 1 — Arrive in the desert. Fly into Calama, transfer to San Pedro, settle in and explore town. Dinner at Estrella Negra. Keep it easy: San Pedro is already at a significant elevation, so use this day to acclimate and hydrate.
Day 2 — Rainbow Valley + Valle de la Luna. Asociación Indígena Turi Hualca, Rainbow Valley’s colorful mineral-rich landscapes, the otherworldly scenery of Valle de la Luna, and incredible views at Mirador de Kari / Piedra del Coyote.
Day 3 — Flamingos, lagoons + stars. Laguna Chaxa, Miscanti Lagoon and Salar de Talar, then dinner at Adobe and an astronomy experience beneath the enormous Atacama night sky.
Day 4 — El Tatio + desert lagoons. An early start for steam rising from El Tatio’s geothermal field surrounded by the Andes, then Flamingos Lagoon, Laguna Piedra, Ojos del Salar and Laguna Tebinquinche.
Day 5 — Last morning + return to Santiago. A slower final morning in San Pedro before the transfer back to Calama — welcome downtime after several packed excursion days.
Where I stayed: El Refugio La Casa de Don Tomas — a pretty property and a good base for exploring. My room didn’t have air conditioning, which isn’t unusual here, so check amenities if AC matters to you.
Vegetarian food 🌱: San Pedro was one of the more challenging destinations I’ve visited for vegetarian food. I ate at Estrella Negra and Adobe. For me, this destination was much more about the landscapes than the food. VeggieTravelGirl Tip: bring backup snacks for long excursion days and don’t assume every tour stop will have a substantial vegetarian meal.
Staying connected: I used an eSIM and stayed connected through this remote region. Download anything important for offline use before excursions — Google Maps, hotel information, tour confirmations and transportation details.
How long to stay: 4–5 days. Four days covers several major excursions; five gives breathing room, which I appreciated because some days are long and start very early. It’s especially good for travelers who love nature, dramatic landscapes, photography, stargazing, adventure, wildlife and flamingos — but it wouldn’t be my first pick for a food-focused vacation.
Final thoughts ✨ There are destinations that are beautiful, and then there are places that almost don’t feel real. The Atacama was the latter for me. You come here because this tiny desert town gives you access to an extraordinary corner of the world. The desert is the magic — if you love places that make you stop and think, “How is this real?”, put the Atacama Desert on your list.
Things to do
One of the most iconic landscapes around San Pedro. The dramatic rock formations and desert scenery feel almost otherworldly.
A completely different desert landscape filled with colorful mineral formations.
One of my memorable wildlife stops, with flamingos surrounded by the vast Atacama landscape.
Some of the most dramatic scenery of the entire trip. The combination of mountains, desert and intensely colored water is incredible.
Worth the very early morning for the geothermal scenery and steam rising across the landscape.
Don’t only explore the Atacama during daylight. Seeing the night sky from this part of the world is part of what makes the desert so special.
Where to stay
A pretty property and a good base for exploring the Atacama. Good to know: my room didn’t have air conditioning — check amenities if AC matters to you.
Plan your trip
Photographs
© VeggieTravelGirl
© VeggieTravelGirl
© VeggieTravelGirlPractical
The apps I rely on here, plus the general travel apps I use everywhere.
General Travel
Excursions, transportation, activities and tours.
Travel resources
Tools and services I personally use that may make your trip easier.
I use an eSIM to stay connected internationally without having to swap physical SIM cards.
Get an eSIM ↗ (opens in a new tab)I’ve even taken a spin class in Chile using ClassPass. While it works internationally, I personally tend to use it more often when traveling domestically because taking fitness classes in another language can add an extra challenge.
Try ClassPass — Get 15 Workouts → (opens in a new tab)Referral link · availability varies by city
Some links on this page are affiliate or referral links, which means I may earn a commission or receive a benefit at no additional cost to you. I only recommend products and services I genuinely use or recommend.